![]() ![]() ![]() This is a weird, specific solution that only works for a problem with a bunch of better solutions.This is when you belay directly off the anchor instead of your harness. ![]() And if the climber can completely unweight the rope, there are a host of options, including ones that don't require backups at all, such as cloving the load strand to the anchor, moving the belay device to your harness belay loop, uncloving, and lowering them from your harness (a redirect might make this nicer). The #1 situation I've been concerned that I might have to lower is when there's a fall into space at the crux, and that's the only situation I've ever actually had to lower. Lowering in guide mode is rare enough, and it's even rarer that you'll need to lower in guide mode when the climber can unweight the rope. And if you're backing up with the Munter, the process looks suspiciously like defeating the belay device and lowering with the Munter (do that).Īll of this requires that the climber be able to unweight the rope. The positioning is weird, true, but the positioning for the getting the carabiner in there for load strand direct lowering is a bit weird. I don't see why that wouldn't apply here. Having tried both, I do agree that the Munter works better. I've been castigated as a noob on this site for backing up my guide mode lower with a Prusik instead of a Munter. I'm not aware of a manufacturer who recommends this method, likely because it directly defeats the locking mechanism of the device. Certainly trying it with the same device and carabiner on two different ropes gave significantly different experiences. Okay, I learned this method because I want to get AMGA certs, but I have a bunch of problems with it:Īm I the only one that thinks this method seems a bit unpredictable? It seems like the thickness/shape of the carabiner and thickness/texture of the rope, as well as which device you're using, could cause a lot of variance in behavior for this method. It makes lowering on a guide-style device a dream, no matter the device (though I find it easiest with the ATC guide due to the orientation). With most other belay devices (like ATC Guide and Pivot) you can maintain a very light grip on the brake strand, just in case it were to slip, but I find that I can't do that with the GriGri without losing some progress.Īdam Fleming wrote: The load-strand direct (LSD) lower is a phenomenal tool every multipitch climber should look into. If the climber is not weighing his/her end, I find the weight of the rope on the climber side pulls down and slowly starts feeding slack back out unless you're always holding on with some firmness onto the brake strand. It may just be me, or because I have the original GriGri, but I personally don't like it because it does not seem to lock the rope for me when not under tension. Regarding the grigri for guide mode belay: Overall, I prefer the Pivot and it is always my go-to belay device on multipitch routes. This is just a minor personal preference though, depending on how you will generally build your anchors. One difference too is the horizontal guide mood loop of the Pivot vs the vertical guide loop of the ATC Guide. seems (to me) to be made of a less durable alloy, so I've noticed faster wear on it than the ATC guide + lighter (I think, don't quote me on it) + larger guide mode hole allows you to rotate any carabiner through it when clipped in (as opposed to the smaller hole of the ATC guide some carabiner gates don't fit through it) as others mentioned, I felt it was almost an all or nothing lower, there wasn't much in between + seems to me like it is slightly more durable than the Pivot + feel sturdier as a single piece with no moving parts (but there's no practical difference) My perceived pros and cons, having used and lowered with both: ![]()
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